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Deconstructed screen printing is a way to create organic patterns that are impossible to draw. You can use these patterns as a starting point in fabric design, but I like to use them as the original artwork or background textures for my colorful earrings. This process yields a look completely its own and creates depth in my designs, which is why I love it.
You start by making a thickened dye paste that is applied to the top of a silk screen. Next, you make impressions in the paste with textured objects. For this blog post, I'm using oyster mushrooms and the cross section of Brussels sprouts. These objects help create organic texture. Once the screen is complete, you'll remove the objects and let the paste dry for about a week. The next step is to “deconstruct” the dried dye paste so you can collect the impressions. To do this, you'll run a new, clear print paste through the screen.
To prepare for the printing process, you'll need to pin white cotton fabric, that is pre-treated with a fixative, to a large padded board. The fabric and board need to be big enough to make a dozen different prints.
Now, the exciting part! Lay your dried screen face down on the cotton fabric, pour the new print paste onto one edge of the screen, and use a squeegee too firmly run the paste over the screen. It takes many passes to get the thickened dye to start breaking down for the first print, but as it starts to loosen the dye, an image will appear on your cotton fabric. At this point, you'll continually move the screen with each pass. Every print is truly unique, depending on where it was in the dye’s cycle of deconstructing. You can try and plan for what you want your designs to look like, but what appears is often different and better than what you imagined, because of this process. Once you're done printing, cover the fabric and let it cure for twelve hours, then rinse. Now your patterns are complete and ready for your next step whether that is fabric design, an original print, etc.
For me, these organic patterns will now be photographed so I can start the digital process of designing my earrings. This process can take many hours as I layer, color, and often merge several prints together. My computer work becomes as intuitive and organic as the printing process itself, meandering through layers, hues, and filters until I reach a finished design. I'll use this artwork as the overall design for my earrings or subtle background textures, depending on how dynamic the pattern is. I love that my process is a real marriage of old tools and new tools.
Below are two sets of photographs showing my design process––what I start with, my deconstructed print, and the final background texture or original artwork for my earrings.
Oyster Mushrooms
Brussels Sprouts
I hope this blog sparks and interest in deconstructed screen printing for you. It's a medium that can be applied to many types of art. Just think outside the box and the possibilities are endless. My fun, colorful earrings are proof to this. Enjoy!
